B a l i - H a i ! from Steve Swafford, photography by Michael Rodriguez
Friday, 4 April 2002
Royal Palace, Puri Senek Agung, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
My first trip to Bali was three years ago at a time when I needed to clear my head and spirit---and celebrate the beginning of a new chapter in my life. Since then I have spent 7 months on this island and have come to look at it as a second home. Originally, a friend in Los Angeles told me about Bali--how beautiful the people are and how affordable it is for one to explore the island. On my first trip, I came to Bali with high expectations and was not disappointed. Bali is one of the few places in the world where one can truly relax without spending a fortune--it is also far enough away from home to actually enjoy freedom from the routine of life in the States, which to me is a real holiday. Weekend get-a-ways are wonderful, but stepping outside of my life inspires me to come home with a fresh outlook on the tasks before me. Effortlessly,Bali offers me this opportunity.
The people of Bali, (the Balinese) are charming, gracious and hospitable. The joy they exude is infectious, their love for one another is hauntingly inspiring and their spirit is seemingly what I imagine my angels to have. The island itself has the most amazing presence. I'm not sure how, what inspired who, but the culture of the Balinese permeates the island in every sense---from the oddly ornate clouds, to the chartreuse colored rice paddies, to the moss covered statues in coy filled ponds, to the smell of burning incense and to the intricately made offerings placed daily with purpose on the street. Surely the island has inspired the Balinese to be so gentle. The island of Bali is a temple--their temple, which they gladly share with each visitor. There is magic here and a Religion based on recognizing both evil and good. Marianne Williamson has said if we all pray at the same time for the same thing, the world would change. Bali is a place where this powerful statement is a reality, just on a smaller scale. The island is 93% Hindu Dharma, a religion of pure love and respect for every living being, plant and spirit. The mass unified thoughts of the Balinese have created a society of happy people and guests. This island is the safest and happiest place on Earth. Disneyland is known for being the happiest place on Earth, but it takes more than clean streets and empty smiles to actually create that environment. The magic of the Island is not just for the Balinese, they gladly share it with anyone who cares to join them. Their spirit is contagious, once felt, the world suddenly changes and becomes much more simple and special. One has to experience their magic to understand what I describe. Given this, you are cordially invited to come to Bali, and grow. Below, are some simple tips about where and what do to. There is much more here for you to experience--our offering is just an appetizer. If you have any specific questions, you may email me, I shall do my best to give you an answer.
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As an American, there are certain adaptations I have made not only as a gesture of respect, but to actually experience more of this magical place. By giving up my expectations and routine the day will be one of pleasant surprises! Bali does have the six out of the ten finest hotels in the world, but they are not the Bali I speak of. In these places you will indeed find perfection. The real Bali, waiting for you outside those pristine gates, is a third-world nation, with a heart and a beautiful spirit. One does have to release much of the "GRADE A" for cleanliness mentality--especially with many "Warungs" (restaurants). The food is delicious--it reminds me of Southern "soul food". The restaurants have grown up with leaps and bounds since I have been traveling here. I was fortunate my first trip to have met a friend from Jakarta who encouraged me to relax and enjoy their "makan" (food). Now I have no hesitation about eating anywhere. It will be an adjustment for first timers, but any hesitation will soon disappear and be replaced with praise for the cook!
The Bali--Burning Man connection! Like at Burning Man, Bali also is a place where every wish and thought becomes a reality. One must wish carefully here. If you are afraid of getting sick--that is exactly what will happen. If you look for friendly faces--that is what you will find. Today for example, I though to myself, wouldn't some fried bananas be nice to have---well, about 20 minutes later someone gave me a package of still hot fried bananas with caramel sauce! The Universe is strong here or maybe I am just more connected to it here as in Burning Man. I do believe that the quantity of those at peace amplifies that energy. The world is what we make it.
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The plane trip to Bali is long, but with the proper medication this hyper boy sleeps right through it. I do think the plane trip keeps most from coming to Bali... and it's probably a good thing for the island is relatively small. It can take up to 32 hours to arrive in Bali, and as short as 24 hours. This is not all air time, just travel time with layovers. The actual over sea flight is about 13 coming and 11 flying back to LA. Given the length of the journey, it is best to have at least 2 week here, a month is perfect. That seems like a long time, but you work hard, and you deserve a break. If this country boy from Mississippi can do it, it is possible for you as well. Bali is a whole new world-- a world that is upside down from anything and everything you are used to. From the hot water being on the right side, to an occasional squatter toilet, oh, and to the unnecessary locks that turn the other way! This island is ready to teach you your very own lessons and comfort you during the process. The air line you choose will determine the route to Denpasar (Bali's International Airport). Be sure to ask you airline where and how long the layover(s) are; especially because you will cross the International Date Line---that still confuses me! Also, it is so important for you to drink lots of water during the trip... ask the attendants to please refill your water bottle several times. Drink when you are not thirsty. This will help you avoid jet lag, if any.
Once you arrive in Bali, life will suddenly smell differently. The aroma here is difficult to describe because it is unique. As I think about it for you, it is somewhat like a mixture of frangipani, incense and curry. The thick, high humidity must carry these smells to the airport! Smell is an accurate word, but perhaps too strong--because it is not a bad smell, simply different.
If you do not have reservations or someone to pick you up, you will need transport. This will be your first adventure. All of a sudden, you deplane and boom, welcome to the in the Southern Hemisphere---a whole new world. Even for us it is still a jolt. Many people will want to help you, and this can feel claustrophobic--after all it has been a long journey to this point. It is important to just say Tidak, Terimah Kasih. (No, thank you). Then find your way outside the airport to Blue Bird Taksi (light blue color), they are always metered, and speak English. If you do decide to let some of the boys carry your luggage a tip of $1 will be fine, and actually generous. They will want $5, but that is too much, trust me. You will need to change some money, I recommend, stopping by a money changer (located everywhere) to change $20 US in to their currency, Rupiah. Once you are in your hotel or home-stay, you can go to a bank (BCA has the best rate for exchange) and take out money directly from your account (Passport required). ATM's are becoming readily available, too, but there is a limit how much a machine can disperse per transaction. We recommend you go inside the bank and make a withdrawal from your account. We usually travel with $400-700 US dollars, just in case of an Emergency. So, you have your Rupiah and a taksi, it's time to find a hotel. We always start our trip at the beach! The Kuta, Legian, Seminyak Villages are perfect for a first stop... and close to the Airport!
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Denpasar--Ngurah Rai International Airport, this is where your plane will land in Bali. It not a place to stay,
one will find it to be dirty and full of beggars. The airport itself is nice, but you'll want to go to another area. Once
you are settled, you may choose to come back to the fabric market here. The prices are all very affordable, but
this area is full of traffic and is just not a beautiful place to be. It is safe though, and certainly a good
place to come for budget shoppers.
KUTA--This is the back-packer area, there are some nice hotels here though and good places to eat, drink and be merry. Kuta
is also home to the world famous Double Six. Double Six is incredible and although the music is heavy Euro trance it is a blast. It doesn't
start until 2:00 am! The dance floor holds at least 1,000 people--it is huge! There is almost an Olympic size swimming pool, with bungee jumping above.
They also have a wood burning pizza oven for snacks... and did I mention this place is ON THE BEACH!!! It's really a
phenomenal club. International DJ's spinning their Trance magic, and happy faces all over--all celebrating FREEDOM! If you want a wonderful affordable massage, the Aquarius on Jelan (street) Legian has
a glorious massage and Balinese flower bath for about $24 each. The flower baths are heavenly. Kuta is also home to shopping galore. There are seemingly thousands
of vendors in shops, on the street and on the beach--all ready to bargain! Also there is Matahari Department store, Kuta Square, Poppies Lane I and II and the Galleria.
LEGIAN--The resorts start here, this is a great area to come for sunsets, watch a volley ball game and beautiful Balinese families playing together. We love the
Warung (restaurant) called Tekor Bali. It is by the beach with a view of the ocean, lovely breezes, lovely staff and hut atmosphere. The prices are affordable and
the food is delicious or "enak".
SEMINYAK--This is where we like to stay, this is the area where most of the ex-patriots live and where the global
designers come to play and work. We think the best restaurants in Bali are here, although you will find many others around the island as well. Our favorite activity here is
(when we are not working) is to spend the day at KuDeTa on the beach. They serve a divine breakfast all day long, have the most
comfortable beach chairs, it's ON THE BEACH, and is oh so stylish--what more could you want? --they have that too!
Kuta, Legian, Seminyak--These three destinations, all near the airport and there is no real distinguishing landmarks to differentiate between them. . Kuta is the most affordable, Legian is twice as expensive and Seminyak is three times more expensive. They all share the same beach, the world famous Kuta Beach. This beach is perfect for surfing, swimming and lounging around on the beach. It's also wonderful for sunsets and smart cocktails. Most of our favorite places are in Seminyak (and near or on the beach!), which is minutes away from Kuta or Legian. We have stayed in many hotels here and have a recommendation for you. We believe that everything on our list is special and a good value for your money.
PADANG BAI
CANDI DASA, KLUNG KUNG, PURA BESAKIH and TENGANAN
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Padang Bai is affordable, quiet, and has four different types of beaches--and our favorite place to holiday.
This small village is the gateway to Lomboc and the Gilly Islands. It was first discovered by the
back packer crowd and now is fast becoming a destination from Kuta. The village of Padang Bai (Bay) is on the main beach and small harbor. In addition there is Blue Lagoon for the best snorkeling on Bali, the white sand
beach for body surfing, and Black Sand beach for drama and sheer beauty. From Padang Bai you can visit Klung Kung the former Royal Seat of Power
for the entire Island. Klung Kung is a busy village, sporting a wonderful market for sarongs and such. It also has banks and an ATM. Candi Dasa is great for a day trip of shopping and lunch. There are
resorts there you may choose to explore. We have found them kind of expensive for what they are. Tenganan is also
a good day trip. This is a Bali Aga village (the original inhabitants of the island, preceding the Javanese invasion and Hinduism). This
famous village is home to the prized double Ikat fabric and Geringsing cloth (pronounced "green-sing") died with human blood which has magical healing capabilities. The fabric is
only produced by two other areas in the world, one piece of double Ikat may take two years to complete. Their single
Ikat is also know for it's exceptional quality, it can take up to 2-3 months to complete. It
is a small village, but certainly old Bali. We simply adore Padang Bai, this is where we spend most of our holiday time.
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This year we were introduced to I. Wayan Gejor who is similar to a natural Raki Master. He has no formal training, nor does he claim to offer anything more than a "special" massage. He truly is in touch with some serious Universal Energy. He has an amazing ability to know exactly what ailes your body and he moves it from it's current location to the top of your head, then channels it through his body then out. His massages are an amazing experience and worth the trip to Padang Bai alone! He also leaves a mark in between the eyebrows, that disappears in a few days, but is some sort of protection mark. My first "special massage" with Wayan moved me to tears, it was a spiritual cleansing and physical rebalance--moreover, a grounding experience. During the massage, I suppose I went into something like a trance, because I looked up at one point and one hand was on my stomach, the other reaching to the sky--with yellow all around him. It was powerful. While in Padang Bai, I would introduce other new friends to him, and they too would have unique powerful experiences. I feel blessed having met and experienced his love and powers. Thank you, Wayan. |
Ubud
Celuk and Mas
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Ubud is the cultural center of Bali (and where I am typing to you today). There are many places to stay here and home
also to some incredible dining. This is a wonderful place to shop for high-end crafts, textiles and antiques. You'll find
the best traditional dancing and music here (at the Royal Palace). You'll also find several museums, the Monkey Forest, the Royal Palace complex, local Temples and the Ubud Market (for local crafts and arts).
While here you may also want to take a day trip to Celuk (for Silver Jewelry) and Mas for master wood carving. Ubud is a day time village, there
is little to do at night, unless you are into Bob Marley. The good side, shop all day, have late afternoon cocktails, then head over to
the Palace for a variety of the finest Balinese dancing, then have a lovely late (9:30ish) dinner. It is worth seeing the beautiful
traditional costumes and dancing! Ubud also has some lovely places to stay. The Cendanda Resort has a wonderful spa, (my favorite). Eighteen
US dollars will buy you a mud bath (from Mt. Agung), a heavenly massage in a rice paddy, and a jucuzzi, with ginger tea! We also
try to be in Ubud for a Sunday to have the delicious Sunday brunch at Cafe Luna!
The Royal Family of Ubud is the only Royal Family left in Bali that is thriving. They have always spared little expense for ceremonies and have long supported the arts. It is no wonder that they are the center of culture and fine arts in Bali. The King has no governmental power, yet he continues to have influence in his former Kingdom. We had the opportunity to spend a long weekend at the Palace. The funniest thing though, we actually became part of the exhibit..for our villa was next to the Kings Villa and part of the tour sponsored by the Palace. So, we would wake up to a lovely breakfast, served on our terrace, and in mid-bite have our photo snapped... it was a hoot! (We now know why the Royal Family would only come out at night!) During the day we would ride our bicycles around town to escape the madness of those cameras (Hello Madonna!). The tours are over at 4, that was the time we had tea, a shower, and a drink (in that order!) before we would attend the various dances by the Royal performers. We enjoyed the time on the terrace after the tours---the King too, he would hold Court on his terrace. We met the King, Queen and their son the Prince--each on different occasions. I was so proud of myself for knowing conversational Balinese, because one always speaks to Royalty in THEIR language. The Queen and I became surprisingly friendly and she offered me an opportunity to buy some of the Kings hand made sarongs and sonkets---which I did. As we were leaving she called me to her and gave us two of the Kings sashes to thank us for our time with them. I was charmed.
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Lovina is another of our favorite places... when we are in here it is our favorite place, and when we are in Padang Bai--that is our
favorite place. Lovina (slightly larger than Padang Bai)is a small quiet village on a black sand beach... and the home of Bali's famous dolphins . Near by, Singaraja (Lion King)
is the Regency, and features a day market for food, clothing, cd's, vcd's and dvd (for $1). The multi-media is all copies and none
are premium quality, but hey they are a dollar! We adore renting bicycles here, the land is pretty flat and one can ride
all day! It is even possible to take a day trip via bike to the Hot Springs in the foot hills to the East. The Hot Springs are volcanically heated
aquifers that are just divine--there is nothing like it! Also near Lovina
are the Gigit Waterfalls, which are up the mountain. It's best to go there by car or motorbike, they are cool fresh
rain water springs from the mountains. Another activity is to hire one of the colorful fishing boats to see the dolphins. It requires an early start (like 6:30 am).
The experience is somewhat funny--about a
dozen boats chase the dolphins around---it seems like a big game for the dolphins. They are beautiful blue, black and gray
dolphins and smaller than one would think. They are such free spirits! There is also amazing snorkeling, (again, one must hire a boat
to get to the coral reef). It is worth doing! You may also see the amazingly fast flying fish on the way! Lovina does not have an exceptional beach for frolic.
It's black sand beach can be hot and usually has no waves, but it is wonderful for sunsets. We like to stay at the Hotel Rini, because they have a pool!
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PACKING--What to take for a holiday in Bali??? First timers, bring too much and never wear
what they have schlepped 10,000+ miles. Why? Bali has literally thousands of shops to buy clothes. You will find anything from a few dollars to what ever you want to spend. Luxurious linen, sporty cotton, stylish japanese t-shirts, elegant silks and cottons from India..
and much more! One does not need to bring anything but one comfort outfit, basic toiletry items, plus any necessary medication.
We recommend that you pack any clothes you no longer wear to donate to the people of Bali. One would never know
how poor they are behind those gorgeous smiles, but they are. Your donation or gift of clothes will absolutely
send your spirit soaring---they will be thrilled. They especially love anything American. Also ladies, any
make-up you no longer use will be highly prized. The plus--plus side of this, you will have lots of free space in your
luggage to pack your new clothes and treasures from the island of the gods. It is a good, good thing.
MARKET SHOPPING In Bali--Truly, "the art of the deal"! No matter where you are in Bali you will find many of the same
type of items. The quality, presentation and price will vary. Try to avoid impulse shopping--take a few days
to see what is available and to compare. The art of the deal is when you find something interesting and ask the price
, the price they will offer you is twice is much as they will accept. (Americans and Japanese are ALWAYS told the highest prices)
Here are some simple tips to bargain.
Always start your bidding at less than half of the offered price. They will ALWAYS ask for more. Stick to your guns. Be prepared to say "no, thank you" (tidak, terima kasih) and walk out. Often, their response will be "you bankrupt me!", and they will ask for "a little more for good luck", and/or ask you "ok, last price". If you remain firm, you will achieve the right price. Just remember if they do not accept your price, there will be someone else who will--probably two doors down! There are many boutique shops that have fixed prices and these will always have signs and priced merchandise.
SCHEDULING a holiday in Bali--When planning a time to come to Bali, you may want to consider the lunar cycle. Their
calendar is unlike ours and is based on the cycles of the moon. If you are here during a full moon, there will be many ceremonies
to see. The Balinese have wonderfully elaborate ceremonies for the cycles of the moon, even the new moon. To check the lunar cycles
here is a website (www.lunarcycles.com). Also realize June, July and August are Bali's peak tourist season. This means, the island
is packed and I would definitely make reservations for accommodations. We prefer to travel during the off-season (December-April). This is their
rainy season, but the rain drops are warm and it's never been a problem.
VISITING A TEMPLE--Temples are always open, there is more activity during a ceremony, but you are welcome into
their ceremonies. You must wear a sarong and a sash into the temple, and have your shoulders covered with shirt, or fabric.
It is also appropriate to wear something to cover your forehead, but not necessary. Women are not allowed
while menstruating. There are temples
everywhere, the mother temple is Besake on the East side of the Island. In addition some other large temples worth seeing are
Tanalot (Temple on the Sea), Mt. Agung (The highest and most sacred mountain), Kintamani, and the Monkey Temple. There is no need
to be nervous about experiencing a Temple, they welcome everyone with love and peace.
LANGUAGE---some helpful, courtesy words and phrases (Indonesian)
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Most travelers that visit Bali are touched spiritually. Be ready for your spirit to evolve and your life to change. Any specific questions, you may email Steve or Michael. We are happy to help you. |
| Web Design and Maintenance by Stephen T. Swafford, Photography Courtesy Michael A. Rodriguez--both of Indah Bulan |
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