2008opentravelculture.swf


~ The Great American Road Trip ~



 The Indah Bulan team is home in Los Angeles--there is NOTHING like a good old fashioned Road Trip! We are refreshed, inspired and ready to create beauty once again! Below are some highlights of where we spent our time. Maybe you'll want to take a road trip this summer yourself! It can be as lavish as you like or as affordable. We traveled affordably, yet with style--this is Indah Bulan, of course! Getting there was fantastic, as we drove the state highways, instead of the Interstates.

What we found were great "mom and pop" restaurants, motels, flea markets and occasionally interesting regional folk lore! We planned about 4 days to arrive in Jackson, Mississippi (from Los Angeles) but, had so much fun, we took 7 days! The return trip we used the Interstate as we pulled a trailer filled with treasures from The South. The Interstate has been fine, but twice as expensive as the state highways. There are very few mom and pop places, just higher priced corporate hotels and motels. So, if you want to see something special--stay off the Interstates! By purposely omitting the corporate restaurants and motels, we not only found kind, helpful people, but we helped many small businesses like ourselves. Corporate America is conceptually a great thing, but many times they are preditors, stealing business from those who pioneered mercantile, good food, and lodging. These places may not look like a Marriott or Holiday Inn, but they are generally just as clean. In fact there was only one place during our whole trip, that we chose to decline. Not only did we save lots of money, but we helped out the old Route 66 type businesses! Our ambitious itinerary fell short of heading up the Eastern seaboard, but provided a wealth of extensions in the Deep South. Getting in the car and simply driving out of our life was indeed spectacular for our spirits. The open road is full of promise. America, the beautiful--it's an enormous country!
 
Indah Bulan will be featuring a new category this summer within our domain. "Southern Accents" will be packed with the treasures we literally hauled back to Los Angeles. Among our finds are cast iron lamps and a cast iron bird bath from old New Orleans, heavy decorative Iron moldings from all over the South, a stunning Iron art piece from England, a Biedermeier chair, a Chippendale sofa made in Mississippi, an English Corner cabinet, a pine book case, alabaster lamps.... some gorgeous things---wait till you see how affordable they are going to be! We are thrilled! Email us or call us to set up a private showing. Southern Accents
 
 
29 March 2003 - 5 May 2003, presently in Los Angeles

 

Natchez, Mississippi


Mylanta! Natchez was a treat. Natchez is home to some 300 antebellum structures. It was once the richest city, per capita, in America in the late 18th - early 19th Century. Fortunes were made by cotton, fur trade and use of the Mississippi River to move goods northwards. (This was the pre-railroad era, transport by boat was the fastest) We were blessed to have had a great host and hostess during our stay--my Mother's "twin cousin", Martha Jane Owens and her husband Bob. Aunt Martha Jane gave us a splendid tour of the historical district, something I hadn't done since 1976. She arranged for us to see a few homes that are not on tour, plus arranged for us to stay at the immensely gorgeous Dunleith. Dunleith is a childhood memory for me... once upon a time, my family visited Natchez as a guest of my Aunt Martha Jane. Her son, Glen Owens was a member of the Calvary for the Spring Pageant--somewhat like a cotillion, but indigenous to Natchez. We were guests of Belvedere an antebellum home next door to Dunleith. My parents, were invited for cocktails at the newly refurbished Dunleith. I remember being frustrated at our sitter because I had not been invited. Well, we were guests of this incredible mansion this time, and enjoyed several cocktails on the upper veranda. It was worth the wait! The 40 acre property was a dream come true.

 

Fair Oaks; 1822, National Register of Historic Places
   

Stanton Hall; Detail Corinthian Column
 

Natchez water tower, as viewed from Stanton Hall
 Natchez is a milestone of my early days--as it was my first inspiration to become a landscape architect and fueled my desire to learn about history and provenance of antiques, homes and my Mississippi heritage. Natchez survived General Grant's march through the city because it was deemed "unimportant stratigically". After the war between the states, Natchez was intact, but faced something even more difficult than Grant---poverty. Natchez was so poor that in the late 19th Century, when the rest of the South was tearing down reminders of "The War" and replacing them with fashionable Victorian mansions, Natchez had no money to do anything but survive. This was a great blessing in disguise, because today the Old South is preserved in Natchez. This is a city full of history, and for the most part has not changed any historic natural landscapes, although a few newly refurbished homes could use a classically trained landscape architect. They too have become susceptible to landscapers with no training. I am a firm believer that historic properties should remained planned for future generations, not these fast gardens which mature in a year. Natchez though is still a national treasure of architecture, landscape architecture, history and society. This is a great American city... perhaps my favorite... especially with my Aunt Martha Jane there!
 Michael and I are interested in taking a few ladies to join us next year, Aunt Martha Jane has graciously signed on to help create another trip to remember. If you'd like to go, let us know. We plan to be in Natchez during the off season, (late Spring) so that we may have private tours and private parties. We shall be in residence at Dunleith (see photos directly below this paragraph). This is going to be wonderful, special trip! Do let us know if you are interested in joining us, so that I may begin to plan. Think "Gone With The Wind" in real life.
 
Dunleith; 1856,
National Historic Landmark
 
IB at Dunleith! 2003

 
Cocktails at Dunleith

 
Stanton Hall; 1857
National Historic Landmark
 
Stephen Swafford and Aunt Martha Jane Owens
 
Dunleith at night

 

Dunleith Art, courtesy Michael A. Rodriguez
 
Downtown Natchez, Mississippi
 
Dunleith Fountain, Cast Iron
 
Dunleith at Night
 

Dunleith Art; courtesy Michael A. Rodriguez
 
Catholic Basilica, Natchez Mississippi
 

Historic Natchez

 

Dunleith Art;
courtesy Michael A. Rodriguez
 
Mammy's Restaurant, Natchez
 
Historic District, Natchez

 
Old Baptist Church, Natchez

 
Historic District, formal garden; Boxwood (Buxus japonica)
 

Fair Oaks; 1822, National Register of Historic Places
 
Stanton Hall; Detail Corinthian Column
 

Natchez water tower, as viewed from Stanton Hall
 

Stanton Hall; home of Pilgrimage Garden Club
 
Stanton Hall; Scale Study
 
Stanton Hall; Front Porch Detail
 
Stanton Hall; Entrance Iron Detail
 

Stanton Hall; Live Oak at Entrance (Quercus virginianna)
 
Finally a cocktail at Dunleith!
 

Birmingham, Alabama


We enjoyed Birmingham hospitality twice! Birmingham is what I call a city in a forest--the trees shade most of the city. It is a well designed early 19th Century city. From day one this city was rich in iron ore and those who milled and forged it into the city of steel. Her historical architecture downtown is ornate with cast steel facades, her hills are full of English country style mansions. The people of Birmingham are friendly--just as they were when I lived there 13 years ago. Birmingham is full of culture--the Birmingham Museum of Art (BMA) has the second largest Wedgewood collection (second only to Queen Elizabeth II) and the second largest collection of furniture from Versailles (second only to Elizabeth II, also). It is also home to many fine pieces of American Victorian silver, and Old Master paintings. My personal BMA favorite is by the 19th Century American painter, John Singer Sargent. "Lady Helen Vincent" still gives me chills. In addition to the museum, the Birmingham Botanical Gardens is one of the finest botanic gardens in the country, if not the world. The classically designed garden features southern tastes and is spectacular in the Spring and Fall. Downtown is also full of historic buildings and divine cast steel ornaments. Birmingham also has an area called "southside" which is full of parks---lovely forest-like parks. There is only one antebellum structure in Birmingham, actually just outside of the city called Arlington. It is used for society events, particularly events of the prestigious Birmingham Historical Society. This is a social city, there are fine restaurants seemingly on every corner. My favorite is Silvertron cafe on Clairmont Boulevard (on the Southside). Birmingham also is home to many many many antique malls and some fine antique shops. Hannah Antiques is the best mall, and Wardemond Galleries is my favorite fine shop. You are sure to love Birmingham is any of this paragraph resonates with you.
 
Highland Presbyterian Church Detail
 

Old Church converted into Home, Smith Lake
 

Michael puts the MO in Mountain Brook Village
 

Historic Five Points South--business as usual

  Downtown Birmingham on approach   South Side Birmingham
 

Gulf Coast of Mississippi


Biloxi, Mississippi
The Mississippi Gulf Coast is another area that remains a tribute to the Old South. Like Natchez, the coast was spared Sherman's destructive path because it was deemed a non-threat to the Union. The scenic Highway 90 is lined in 200 year old Oak trees, with Spanish Moss dangling in the breeze. The antebellum houses there line the coast, they survived Grant and a handfull of severe hurricanes. The coast is protected by a series of islands which protect it from large waves. One can walk almost a mile off the coast without getting your waist wet---perfect for fishing! Biloxi is the post-war home of Jefferson Davis (the President of the Confederacy), he was a frequent guest at Beauvoir and bought it for $2,000. Upon her death, the owner respectfully willed it to President Davis, anyway. The Sons of the Confederacy own it now, and have built the amazing Jefferson Davis Presidential Library on the historic site. It is a sprawling estate with a creek and pond... a reminder of a simple gentile life.

The gulf coast is also home of Krispy Kreme Doughnuts... although there is not one there now (oh I was upset!) There is nothing like a hot Krispy Kreme. The casino's have moved into the area and have done much for the economy, but not without a price. The gulf coast is an ecological disaster. The crystal blue water of the gulf is now green. There is a plan to change this, but it made me a little sad, that these corporations would have such little respect for this historical area. It will take years to reverse the damage. The water is safe to play in, but most of our time was on the white sand beach. We found a lovely tiny area called St. John's and spent time there, as it was peaceful, quiet and charming. The Fire Dog Cafe was our favorite place to eat on the whole trip. The chef has been there for 16 years, and has developed some of the best food in Mississippi. We particularly loved fried pickles and jallepeno peppers! We visited the beach twice and made it our official IB holiday spot.

 
Beauvoir, Home of Confederacy President, Jefferson Davis
 
Bayou of Biloxi

 
Spanish Moss on Live Oak

 
Mississippi Blue Heron
 
Flags of Mississippi
 
Gulf Storm 2003
 
Mansions line the gulf coast
 
Indah Bulan Leaves, day of art
 
April 2003 Full Moon over Biloxi
 
Beauvoir, detail scale front door
 
Biloxi Bayou
 
Guest House, Beauvoir
 

Cypress Swamp, Natchez Trace Parkway
 

"Sun over Mississippi"; Steve Swafford, 2003
 
Cypress Swamp
 
Dogwood (Cornus florida) in bloom
 
French Camp, Kosciusko Mississippi
 

Trees budding green

 
Dogwood Detail, under
 
Natchez Trace Signage
 
Forest lined Natchez Trace
 

Jackson, Mississippi


Mississippi was once a French territory in the 18th Century, remnants of the French influence are still apparent, especially in Jackson. Jackson, the capitol of Mississippi, was named for Andrew Jackson, and is my birthplace. Like Vicksburg, Jackson was burned and very few, if any, antebellum structures exist; except for the old State Capitol building and the Governor's Mansion. The Governor's mansion was used as the Yankee headquarters, and was looted of her fine treasures. Sadly, many pieces of furniture were used as firewood. Modern Jackson is spread out and covers about 60 square miles. The new development is in North East Jackson along the gorgeous man-made Ross Barnett Reservoir. This area is high end development as it is near the fine old Country Club of Jackson. Jackson has seen hard times, and a mass exodus of upper income level people due to mismanaged city growth. Downtown is doing only moderate business and is left with several abandoned fine old Federal style buildings, classic Southern architecture and Art Deco masterpieces. Some are being used, but are in need of desperate need of conservation. Downtown Jackson is filled with fine old homes from the post war era--most are in need of trustees. The grand old King Edward Hotel has been abandoned and is "believed" to be haunted, which has prevented investors buying it. I bet that old hotel would be available for a cool million. This was quite sad for me, as I remembered a bustling, beautiful city. The Governor's mansion is also in need of repair, but worth seeing. When my mother's cousin, Governor George Waller was in Office, his wife Carol Waller enlisted my Mother to help refurbishing the mansion, filling it with period Empire appointments. When the mansion was reopened in the 1970's our family was one of the hosts. I remember being in antebellum clothing on the first landing of the grand stair case for what seemed like hours greeting and watching Mississippi's finest families parade through the splendid mansion. Quite a memory.

Things to do in Jackson; probably the most fun thing to do is shop for antiques and drink Mint Julips. There are probably a hundred or so shops scattered throughout the metro area... Empire furnishings and southern pine anything are perhaps among the best finds. Jackson has a state of the art Museum of Natural History, a fantastic place to learn of the indigenous animals that roamed this area. It covers pre-historic creatures to the present.
 
The Old State Capitol, now the Jackson Museum of Art
 
Governor's Mansion
 
The Governor's Mansion and State Seal
 
State Capitol Dome
 
Art Deco Building
 
Dogwood bloom
 
The Old Bank of Jackson
 
Art Deco Detail at Post Office
 
The old King Edward Hotel in disrepair
 
Mural Art
 
Mural Art
 
Mural Art
 

Vicksburg, Mississippi

(sts, Sunday March 30, 2003)
----We're here in Mississippi, staying over in historic Vicksburg, Mississippi. What a long travel day, we didn't make any stops today---just Interstate---missing our state highways all the way! Tomorrow we plan to explore Vicksburg a little, then take the back roads to my brother's house, in Jackson, the Capital. More later---oh, we did find a non-corporate motel!.. the Best Inn, on the river. $39.99!
 

Mississippi at Large


 
Kosciusko's Historic Downtown
 

Kosciusko's Historic Attala County Courthouse
 
Flowering Dogwoods in Kosciusko
 

Home of my Great Grandfather, Ezekiel Malachi Odom, Star, Mississippi
 
Federal Eagle over Mississippi
 
A funny sign...
 
MO art; courtesy Michael A. Rodriguez
 
County Courthouse of Canton
 

Dugout art; courtesy Michael A. Rodriguez
 
Mississippi Sky
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Caboose in Newton
 
The Mississippi River Bridges at Natchez
 

President's Home, Mississippi State University
 
"Two Stephens" Stephen and his Great Uncle Stephen D. Lee
 
Post War Home in Natchez
 
Live Oaks at the Gulf of Mexico
 
Michael at Dunleith
 
Wild Turkeys in Kosciusko
 Mississippi, the twentieth state of the Union. State flower; the Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), State Bird, the Mockingbird. Mississippi and my family go way back.
     
     
 

Abaline, Texas

(sts, Sunday, March 30, 2003)(original journal entry)
----About 30 miles west of Abaline (which is almost the center of the State of Texas), we hopped on the Interstate 20. Amazingly, the Interstate is crowded---we miss our state highways! There is a huge difference in the feeling of these "back roads" compared to the fast paced, crowded Interstates. We miss the relaxing speed of 65 mph, the charming little towns and the local merchants. Driving the state highways has given us a better perspective of what is actually going on in America via small towns. Abaline is one of those big little cities like Roswell, a congregation of country living. The local roads are somewhat confusing, as we found out searching for a local motel. We found a place called The Budget Host, which was $32 plus a 13% Texas guest tax. It was fine, but not as perfect as the Roswell Belmont Motel. One common denominator we have noticed is that all the motels we've checked out have been operated by Pakistani. Most are charming, it was just interesting that this group chose motels. It's Sunday, and we are planning to be in Jackson, Mississippi tomorrow evening for supper with my brother and his family. We hope to cross Texas today---that is unless we find some Antique shops along the way!
 

"Drive Friendly, the Texas Way"


(sts, Saturday, March 29, 2003)(original journal entry)
----We have begun the long arduous trek through west texas. It helps being on a state highway, instead of the Interstate. It's a beautiful day, miles and miles of brown pastures, oil wells and Dodge Ram trucks. We anticipated going to Dallas for a night on the town, but with the 8' tall trelli bungee strapped to the top of our Explorer we're opting for a less glamorous evening. Who knows where we'll stop tonight, but that's part of the adventure.
 

Roswell, New Mexico!

(sts Friday, March 28, 2003)(original journal entry)
---The drive was amazing, we used the state highways instead of the Interstate highways and what a treat. Not only were the roads perfectly drive-able, but for most of the drive there was little or no traffic, just amazing vistas, buttes, mountains, pastures, farms and charming small towns. There is nothing like being on the open road, except maybe an evening with friends. Today, we explore Roswell, we'll be here a couple of days, then off to Dallas for some urban-fun.
{sts, Saturday, March 29, 2003)
----Roswellian is a term we coined to describe the gentle oddness of this place. Roswell is a huge place (apx. 50,000 people, median income $19,500), but there is no industry (that we found) or apparent support for the city's booming population---which to us is Roswellian. The people are wonderful, ready to talk and quite hospitable. We rented a motel room at the Belmont Motel, $26 per night. There are corporate accommodations which start at $59 per night, they have the same accommodations we had, maybe a little "nicer", but you're paying for the corporate name. We encourage you to support local businesses. It is a sleepy town, shutting down around 5-6 pm. A few restaurants are open for dinner, Juana's (on Main street) was really fantastic. There are lots of great mid-western collectables and antiques on Main street (previews of Indah Bulan's purchases to come). Among the treasures we found are 5 wrought iron trelli, some iron ornaments, a few lamps, and an amazing English wrought iron art piece. Also, gas prices were a treat! $1.55 per gallon, as opposed to the $2+ in Los Angeles. This was a great stop, we spent three days, and two nights. Off to Texas!
 

Crash Down Diner, Roswell, NM
 

Crash Down Diner Facade
 

Michael, Crash Down Diner
 

Alien Museum, Roswell, NM
 

The Welcome
 

Drama in the Museum
 

St. Johns, Arizona

This was our sleep over stop on route to Roswell, via Highway 60. We arrived around 9:00 pm, with the idea that it was a bit larger than it actually was. There were two places to spend the night, Budget Inn or Comfort Inn.... they were both over priced at $39.99---does that really seem greatly less than $40?. We are doing our best to stay away from any national chain restaurant or accommodations, because not only do we want to support small businesses, but we would like a real experience instead of typical corporate mediocrity. We chose Comfort Inn, with a sort of "OKAY--just do it" attitude. The next morning, as we resumed our trek to Roswell, just twenty miles down the road was a perfect local motel for $20 a night. The lesson, never settle, keep looking for what you want---there will always be a blessing. It may be in disguise, but it shall be there. On to Roswell!
 

First Stop: Laughlin, Nevada---The Flamingo!

Casual, affordable, and a swimming pool! The rooms start at $25 per night, which is half of the cost of Motel 6. No shopping, just rest. Leaving on a vacation or holiday, as we call it, is the second hardest part of travel--finishing our personal and business responsibilities, taking care--in advance of our household, and then there's packing. I am of the nature to pack lightly, Michael packs thoroughly (although he too is packing lighter). Less is better if you plan to move around, as we prefer to do. By the end of the trip, we'll have enough additions to worry about in stead of bringing 5 pairs of shoes. Comfort is our guide; although we did bring a a nice outfit for that potential dinner party (we are going to The South!). So, we're off, packed, excited, and thrilled to once again be on out of our normal routine. .....We're on route to Roswell!
Steve, March 26, 2003.
 

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