Water-Wise Gardening  Field Notes:
Stephen Swafford, BLA One of the first gardens in Southern California that I helped design was a water wise demonstration garden for the San Bernardino Municipal Water District (their headquarters). Today, after living in Los Angeles for 20 years, I now realize the difference between what is native and what is non-native. Even though I educated myself on the principles of water wise gardening, I didn't realize exactly why there was a need for such a garden---after all LA is full of tropical plantings. This project was an eye opener because it taught me that there is a huge amount of wasted water here--- especially since our native flora is so attractive and vast AND relies on such little water to thrive. I never forgot that 70% of the water we use in LA goes to water our gardens. In this water wise garden, we promoted Mediterranean plants---those from a similar climate like Australia, Southern France and Italy. Although this is much better than planting Camellia's and Azaleas and tropicals, this still ignores the potential to create a garden with native plants. When I volunteered for the Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden (in Claremont, California) I truly learned how to create a water-wise garden that promoted our own native plant material. In fact I led water-wise gardening tours for the botanic garden, and helped educate the public. They too were surprised by the vast difference in gardening. |
| Of course, no matter where you live, there are plants that are appropriate for your area. "Appropriate" means Native; "plants that work" means plants from similar climates. It is possible to have an all native garden, but we just recommend a good mix of "appropriate" and "plants that work". Even those who are not avid gardeners have a plant that conjures a fond memory; and with many of us being transplants ourselves, it's nice to have a little memory in our new environment. In our own garden we have Roses that are not indigenous to California, but we love them. Satisfy your own love, but just be smart about planning your own garden. Each of our roses are watered by hand---only when needed. I think the biggest mistake home owners make is, over watering their water wise garden. When people select natives or drought tolerant's it is always necessary to water them (deeply) as they establish a healthy root system, but after a year or two there is no need to water like you live in a rain forest! Over watering these types of plants is exactly what invites pests and disease into your garden. |
 One other clarification that
needs to be made is the difference in drought tolerant and Native. Drought tolerant means that if grown
properly and after the plant is established it can survive periods of low water--virtually all mature established plants are drought tolerant. California natives, for the most part, are all
drought tolerant but better since THIS is their natural environment. They are used to having no extra water in the Spring, Summer and Fall; and just limited amounts in the Winter.
Thus, if one truly is looking for a GREEN GARDEN in LA, California Natives should be your palate. You'd be as surprised as I was to learn that we
are not just talking about prickly things. In Southern California there is a vast amount of "micro-climates" that produce a multitude of
plants to suit ever taste and garden style. Visit the Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden (a garden exclusively of California Natives) to
see the potential. In a metropolis, like Los Angeles, it is easy to just do what your neighbors are doing---even if it is wrong! Be the leader
on your street---take the big expanse of water thirsty lawn and plant a garden that is GREEN! You'll not only be making your own life better
long term, but setting a proper example. |
 Beautiful Echium fastuosum! |
 Succulents are great for any garden |
 Water wise color! |
 Echeveria; a terrific family of succulents |
 Hanging baskets of succulents is a perfect way to save water... they thrive on neglect! |
 Mexican Bush Sage... one of the first "drought tolerant" plants on the market! |
 Opuntia is living sculpture, with a little pruning |
 An established water wise garden... |
 Consider a sedum lawn (for areas with little foot traffic) |
 Another established low water usage garden |
 Succulents in planting pots! Very little water; great color and texture |
 Gorgeous Tagetes! |
 Shade in the summer is true environmental planning |
 A Seattle native garden |
 Water wise indeed! |
Below are some topics associated with Water Wise Gardening, hope this information encourages you to begin the transition.
Water Usage
The Optimal Schedule!
Natives
Irrigation vs. the Water Hose
Maintenance
Turf Grass
Pests and Diseases
Public Utilities and Rebates
Mulch
Climate Inspired Selection
Reading Materials
The Optimal Schedule!
Natives
Irrigation vs. the Water Hose
Maintenance
Turf Grass
Pests and Diseases
Public Utilities and Rebates
Mulch
Climate Inspired Selection
Reading Materials
 WATER USAGE:
If you spent any time on IndahBulan.com, no doubt you have read that 70% of the water we use in Los Angeles is for our
gardens or yards. What that number actually means is that Grass uses more water than we do! Isn't that absurd!
How much grass do you have (is it just for
show?). The idea of planting natives, drought tolerant or even xeriscape is to be a responsible gardener---with our help, a stylish one, too! The biggest thing you could do it remove
part if not all that grass. It could be done in phases (like we have done in our own garden). There are a couple of excuses for having grass---but only a
few! People who entertain---have lots of foot traffic, those who have children, or pets certainly need some grass. If your lawn is for show, then why not make your life easier (growing
a lawn in a desert/chaparral environment is tough work!). Before you plant it is really important to make sure the grass is dead, so it won't creep back in your
garden. I must say, we have used tarp's (to kill the grass) and we've had it dug out, but the most reliable product is Round-up. Believe me, it's hard
admit it! I am told that it decomposes in the ground... and the product works. We have never had a problem with the soil after using it. It really is the most effective way. (Let me know if you have
a different means---please! Stephen@IndahBulan.com )
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| THE OPTIMAL SCHEDULE: Young plants need care, just like we do.
Planting in the heat of the summer puts stress on your new garden, plus
there is a higher chance to loose plant material. Also, the amount of water needed is substantial. I know, not everyone can plant in the fall.
Summer is for planning and installing the hardscape, Fall and Winter are for planting, then Spring is time to enjoy! Most everyone has it just the
opposite!
No matter what you choose to plant, each plant will not grow until the roots are settled and comfortable (not a stretch to imagine), so consider
planting them when they are not competing with the heat (and supposed to be dry). Think you don't have a green thumb? Odds are it is because you
always plant too late! Actually the nursery's do not help this situation, for annuals like tomatoes plant before Summer, so the roots can become established.
The nursery's and home improvement centers tend to sale plants during the season for results as opposed to the optimal season before. Maybe your thumb is
greener than you think!
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| NATIVE GARDENS: Visit a botanic garden, ask others who garden what their favorite native plants are.... read a book on the plants that
are indigenous to your area. In L.A., a few resources are Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden (in Claremont), The Theodore Payne Society,
Descanso Gardens---all feature California Natives. Our favorite nursery in Los Angeles is the San Gabriel Nursery, a family owned nursery
that have a CA Native section (plus they will order anything for you!). Are you fond of English gardens??? --perhaps some of that famous Parisian
color----all this can be achieved with natives... your landscape architect is the best guide.
Some of the benefits of planting natives is that they are more disease and pest resistant, also they attract native insects (the good ones) and wildlife. Having the right kind of insects in your garden are beneficial, plus you are doing a good thing. One of the most common mistakes is over planting. Some want the garden to look as if it's always been there. Since natives are usually in 1 to 5 gallon containers, the plants are usually small. The mistake comes when 5, even 2 are planting when only one is necessary. That 1 gallon plant may turn out to be 15 feet wide! this is how hiring a professional will save you money (not only in plants, but in long term maintenance). Back to the list |
 IRRIGATION VS. THE WATER HOSE: Once your garden has been in for three years, it's time to reduce the amount of water---it's what
you've been waiting for! Turn that irrigation system off gradually. Most natives prefer to be wet in the Winter... read about
your plants' requirements to know what to do. You can actually save water by using the water hose! Water only what needs to be watered,
be selective. Lean to know your plants, they will tell you. Be sure to have a good layer of mulch on the ground and repeat every
other year or so. Another idea is to just let the water drip out of your hose on a particular plant.... water deeply. With all
irrigation systems water less frequently but for a longer amount of time. (read more in Organic Gardening)
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| MAINTENANCE:
Having a properly spaced and planted native garden is the only true low maintenance garden. When a non-native plant is grown
it is always more susceptible to pests and disease. If a more refined look is desired larger shrubs and trees can be pruned to
create interesting branching patterns. The only advice I have for this is never leave a place to hang your hat! Make sure if a limb is
cut make sure it is at the intersection of another branch. One of my biggest pet peeves is seeing amputated trees and shrubs. When a limb is
just whacked off, at the point of the cut there will be multiple shoots---so the problem has just been multiplied. This starts a cycle of
cutting more and more until the plant or specimen is deformed. Other maintenance chores are to run daylight tests of your irrigation system (this is especially important
with a drip irrigation system);
change the watering time according to the season AND the age of your garden. Mulch is KEY to water retention.
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| TURF GRASS: In arid climates like the Western United States, there are few reasons to have turf in a residential setting. (Exceptions: lots of foot
traffic; children; or pets). One suggestion to water thirsty lawns (other than replacing it with a different ground cover) is
to over seed your lawn with a turf grass that has deeper roots and therefore is more "drought tolerant". There is no such thing
as a drought tolerant grass... no grass will stay green during a true drought. But these
new varieties like Marathon II and III have roots that
can reach 12" deep. The seed will need to be watered deeply for at least a year to achieve the optimal root depth. Another key piece
of advice is to maintain your lawn at 2" (cutting it to the root just stresses the grass out and requires even MORE water). Grass grows at the
same rate no mater what length it is cut. By maintaining a 2" blade, this provides shade for the root system---it also helps
prevent weeds by robbing them of full sun. Stop using fertilizer, instead allow the cut grass to fall below the 2" line to provide a
natural-organic fertilizer. (So much better than a chemical!)
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 PESTS AND DISEASES:
Ever wonder why YOUR garden seems to be the place all the bad bugs visit? Whenever we plant non-natives it is like an engraved invitation
to the pests and diseases. No more poison! When poison is used not only the bad bugs are killed, but
other beneficial insects and wildlife (like birds) who eat the poisoned insects. This is a vicious cycle that must end. The good news!!!!
ONE RARELY HAS THE SAME INFESTATION TWO YEARS RUNNING---IF LEFT ALONE! The reason for this, most everything has a natural predator, so
leaving the bad bugs invites the beneficial insects for dinner! Nature is powerful.... If you MUST do something, consider a sprayer with
a mixture of water and tobasco or olive oil. This is non-toxic and will just shoo the pests away unharmed! There is no need for the expense of harmful chemical.
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 PUBLIC UTILITIES AND REBATES:
Contact your local public utility companies to see if there are any rebates for water conservation, and
energy conservation. Many offer discounts for conservation... some even offer free trees to green the city. If they do not, this
is the way to get the ball rolling! Call today! (Also they may deliver some free mulch for you!)
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 MULCH:
This is hands down the best way to have a water wise garden. Having a 2-3 inch layer of mulch prevents rapid evaporation (so the plants
can absorb more water). Another plus of mulch is weed reduction. Although seeds do not require sunlight to germinate, they do need sunshine
to grow---having a thick layer of mulch will cut the amount of weeds in half. Types of mulch: We always use a medium pulverized
mulch. I am not fond of white rock, nor the bark mulch----especially if it is colored (if it is colored it was
done with chemicals that will leach
into your garden). Call your local Power Company, if they have a downed tree in your area, they probably will be happy to deliver the
mulch to your house! Also, arborist may have the same need (it saves them from having to dump in a landfill). Mulch needs to
added every couple of years or so... try adding your own garden clippings! Add the fall leaves to your mulch!
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 CLIMATE INSPIRED SELECTION:
When choosing a plant for your garden, consider a hot spot that needs some shade. Plant a deciduous tree
(one that looses its' leaves once a year). This smart idea will help keep your home cool in the summer, but also allow
the sun to warm it in the winter. This is classic landscape architecture----plants with a purpose. Deciduous trees and shrubs create
seasonal interest in your garden. Fresh green leaves and flowers in the Spring; Cool shade in the Summer; Glorious color in the Fall; and
sunlight in the Winter--plus interesting branching patterns and colorful bark. Your garden changes with the seasons---select
a native tree, but remember to consider the mature size!
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 READING MATERIAL:
Check your local Botanic Garden for information on water wise plantings; explore
Indah Bulan online; Director of Horticulture
of the Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden
(in Claremont), Bart O'Brien has written two excellent books "California Native Plants for the Garden" (published by
Cachuma Press, Los Olivos, California; and, "Care and Maintenance of
Southern California Native Plant Gardens" (published by Faust Printing).
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